Every year when the first cool front finally rolls through Houston, my clients start asking for the same thing: a deeper lip. Berry, brick, wine, warm brown, a rich red. It's the fastest way to make your whole face feel like fall, even if it's still 80 degrees outside. After twenty-plus years doing makeup behind the chair, I can tell you a deep lip isn't hard to wear. It just needs a little more prep than a sheer gloss. Here is exactly how I do it on clients, step by step.
Fall clothes lean into richer colors, like camel, chocolate, burgundy and olive, and a deeper lip ties the look together. It also does a lot of work on its own. On a busy morning, a polished deep lip with simple mascara and a little blush looks finished and intentional. That's why I call it the most efficient makeup move of the season.
You don't need to know your exact undertone to find a great fall lip, but it helps to know which direction you lean. If you're not sure, our Shade Finder walks you through it.
The easiest test is to swatch on your fingertip, which is closer to your lip color than the back of your hand, and hold it up next to your mouth in daylight. Browse our full lip collection to compare shades side by side.
Deep colors show every dry patch, so smooth lips first. Gently buff with a soft washcloth, apply a balm, and give it a few minutes to sink in. Blot away the excess right before your color goes on, because slick balm makes lipstick slide.
Then add a thin base. A swipe of Eye & Lip Primer helps color grip and stay true. In a pinch, a tiny bit of concealer patted over the lips does a similar job and neutralizes natural pigment so your shade looks exactly like the bullet.
Liner is the secret to a clean, sharp deep lip. Choose a lip pencil that matches your lipstick or sits just a touch deeper. Start at the center of your upper lip and draw a soft X at the cupid's bow, then work outward toward the corners in short, feathery strokes rather than one long line. Repeat on the bottom lip, starting at the center.
Here's my favorite trick: once the outline is done, lightly fill in the whole lip with the pencil. That gives your lipstick something to hold onto, so if the color wears down during the day, it fades evenly instead of leaving a ring of liner.
This is the step that separates "I reapplied four times" from "it lasted through dinner."
Then clean up the edges. Dip a small flat brush or cotton swab in a bit of concealer and trace around the outside of your lip line. It sharpens the shape instantly and is the most "done by a pro" detail you can add. A mist of Setting Spray over your finished face helps everything wear together.
With a deep lip, let the rest of your makeup support rather than compete. I like a smooth base, defined brows, a few coats of longwear mascara and a soft flush from our blush collection. If you want a little eye shadow, stick to soft neutral or warm tones from our eyeshadow shades and blend well. Save the smoky eye for nights when you choose a nude lip.
Lips can lose some volume and definition with age, and fine lines around the mouth can make color travel. None of that means you have to give up a rich lip. Keep liner exactly on your natural edge, choose satin or creamy finishes over very flat mattes, and always prep with primer. Many women in my chair tell me a confident lip is part of feeling like themselves again in midlife, which is a big theme in my book MENO POSSE. For more, read Menopause and Makeup: What MENO POSSE Taught Me About Midlife Glow and how to choose a foundation for mature skin.
Even in fall, Houston can be sticky. Prime, line, blot and powder between layers, and keep a tissue and your lipstick in your bag for a quick touch-up. For a full routine, see how to make makeup last in Houston humidity.
Janelle Alexis Cosmetics are cruelty-free, made in the USA and ship from the USA, and our formulas are good for all skin types. I built this line from what I actually reach for in the salon, so every product is meant to look beautiful in person and on camera.
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Prep with a thin layer of primer or concealer, line just inside your natural lip line with a lip pencil, then fill in and blot. Lining first creates a barrier that helps keep deep color in place.
Yes. Choose a satin or glossy finish rather than a flat matte, keep liner right on your natural edge, and add a touch of gloss at the center of the lower lip to add dimension.
Apply a layer, blot, dust a little translucent powder through a tissue, then apply a second layer. Long-wear liquid lipsticks also hold up well through meals.
Yes. Janelle Alexis Cosmetics are cruelty-free, made in the USA and ship from the USA.
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